Given that it's been 24 years since we left Turkey, I'd expected changes and I have seen a few. The most striking to me is the large increase in the number of women wearing headscarves. In the late 1920's/early 30's, Ataturk outlawed both the fez for men and the scarf for women in his quest to modernize and westernize Turkey and move it away from Arab and religious influence. When we were here before we certainly saw women wearing the scarf, but it was generally in less urban areas and women of lower socio economic standing. What I observe now is many young and middle class appearing women wearing the scarf, and even in the current summer swelter, long sleeves, and frequently a coat that goes to the ankle. When I asked our guide, she agreed that it is something increasing, and her view is that it is a way that women give visual sign to their virtue and values. I saw a young couple with a small child today. The man was maybe 30, wearing a NY Yankees jersey, the child was wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and a baseball cap. The woman was covered head to toe in scarf, a long tan coat with only her flip flops showing.

On the other hand, I have not seen any response to the call to prayer which we hear multiple times a day from loudspeakers on every side.

The unemployment rate is approaching 15% but I haven't yet seen evidence of massive change. There are very few beggars on the street, but massive numbers of street vendors... cold water bottles are a popular vending item and the cost is generally one Turkish Lira, about 65-70 cents in American. It may be significant that many touristy shops and kiosks are setting their prices in Euros rather than either TL or dollars.


There are still lots of places to get food. We loved doner kebab and it is omnipresent, as are cimit (bagel/pretzel like breads) and roasted corn.

Horrendous traffic...but it's a city of 15 million plus.... and old narrow streets. THere is now a modern tram/subway system and buses everywhere. And new taxis. I haven't seen dolmuses, the old mini vans and sedans who were used for shared taxi rides... I am told they still exist in the provincial areas.

One of the areas of the city we toured was Fatih. It is said to be a very conservative and traditional area..... very fundamentalist. It's also the heart of their version of the garment district. The second story show windows of almost every building were used to showcase wedding gowns and formal attire. Some were the height of Italian and French fashion, very stylish, very bare.... and then the next shop would have the most covered up gowns you could imagine for those with more conservative life styles. Fascinating. Pictures didn't come out well give that we were in a moving bus, but it was memorable.

I've tried posting this more than once without luck... if it doesn't work this time, no matter... bed calls!